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I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn't much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter. So now I'm going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn't any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system?
Most orifice tubes are white on the short end and colored on the longer end. The longer end has the longer filter screen so that end goes toward the incoming refrigerant flow. The short end of the orifice tube goes in the tubing first.
Quote: ORIFICE TUBE REPLACEMENT Removal ('C' & 'K' Series) 1) Discharge A/C system, using approved recovery/recycling equipment. On models equipped with front A/C system only, remove front grille. Using a backup wrench, loosen condenser-to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting at condenser and disconnect line. 2) On models equipped with rear A/C system, loosen condenser to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting between junction block and evaporator. If necessary, remove air cleaner assembly. 3) On all models, remove and discard fitting 'O' ring.
Using Orifice Tube Remover/Installer (J-26549-E), remove orifice tube from liquid line. If difficulty is encountered during removal of a plugged or restricted orifice tube, remove as much residue as possible. 4) Using a heat gun or hair dryer, carefully apply heat 1/4' from dimples on liquid line. Be careful not to overheat line. If A/C pressure switch is located near orifice tube, remove switch to protect it from heat.
5) While heat is being applied, grip orifice tube using orifice tube remover/installer. Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion to loosen and remove orifice tube. Installation 1) Clean liquid line fitting with NEW refrigerant oil. Coat inside of liquid line and NEW 'O' ring with NEW refrigerant oil.
Lubricate NEW orifice tube and 'O' ring with refrigerant oil and insert them into liquid line. Insert longer orifice tube screen (inlet end) into condenser outlet line first, toward condenser. 2) Tighten liquid line fitting to 18 ft. Chris brown royalty album download zip.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Evacuate, charge and test system for proper operation. Quote: I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn't much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter.
So now I'm going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn't any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system? Wow, Autozone is hiring ASE Certified A/C Techs to work in the stores now? I cannot believe he did that. You really need to replace the drier and pull a vacuum on the system. One can of refrigerant is usually NOT enough to cause the compressor to even come on, so him telling you that its peaked out is normal, since the system will be at equilibrium, since its not compressing or pushing any refrigerant through the orifice.
Of course the low side will show >60 PSI.
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I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn\'t much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter. So now I\'m going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn\'t any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system?
Most orifice tubes are white on the short end and colored on the longer end. The longer end has the longer filter screen so that end goes toward the incoming refrigerant flow. The short end of the orifice tube goes in the tubing first.
Quote: ORIFICE TUBE REPLACEMENT Removal (\'C' & \'K' Series) 1) Discharge A/C system, using approved recovery/recycling equipment. On models equipped with front A/C system only, remove front grille. Using a backup wrench, loosen condenser-to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting at condenser and disconnect line. 2) On models equipped with rear A/C system, loosen condenser to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting between junction block and evaporator. If necessary, remove air cleaner assembly. 3) On all models, remove and discard fitting \'O' ring.
Using Orifice Tube Remover/Installer (J-26549-E), remove orifice tube from liquid line. If difficulty is encountered during removal of a plugged or restricted orifice tube, remove as much residue as possible. 4) Using a heat gun or hair dryer, carefully apply heat 1/4\' from dimples on liquid line. Be careful not to overheat line. If A/C pressure switch is located near orifice tube, remove switch to protect it from heat.
5) While heat is being applied, grip orifice tube using orifice tube remover/installer. Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion to loosen and remove orifice tube. Installation 1) Clean liquid line fitting with NEW refrigerant oil. Coat inside of liquid line and NEW \'O' ring with NEW refrigerant oil.
Lubricate NEW orifice tube and \'O' ring with refrigerant oil and insert them into liquid line. Insert longer orifice tube screen (inlet end) into condenser outlet line first, toward condenser. 2) Tighten liquid line fitting to 18 ft. Chris brown royalty album download zip.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Evacuate, charge and test system for proper operation. Quote: I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn\'t much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter.
So now I\'m going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn\'t any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system? Wow, Autozone is hiring ASE Certified A/C Techs to work in the stores now? I cannot believe he did that. You really need to replace the drier and pull a vacuum on the system. One can of refrigerant is usually NOT enough to cause the compressor to even come on, so him telling you that its peaked out is normal, since the system will be at equilibrium, since its not compressing or pushing any refrigerant through the orifice.
Of course the low side will show >60 PSI.
...'>How To Install Orifice Tube(02.11.2018)I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn\'t much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter. So now I\'m going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn\'t any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system?
Most orifice tubes are white on the short end and colored on the longer end. The longer end has the longer filter screen so that end goes toward the incoming refrigerant flow. The short end of the orifice tube goes in the tubing first.
Quote: ORIFICE TUBE REPLACEMENT Removal (\'C' & \'K' Series) 1) Discharge A/C system, using approved recovery/recycling equipment. On models equipped with front A/C system only, remove front grille. Using a backup wrench, loosen condenser-to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting at condenser and disconnect line. 2) On models equipped with rear A/C system, loosen condenser to-evaporator (liquid) line fitting between junction block and evaporator. If necessary, remove air cleaner assembly. 3) On all models, remove and discard fitting \'O' ring.
Using Orifice Tube Remover/Installer (J-26549-E), remove orifice tube from liquid line. If difficulty is encountered during removal of a plugged or restricted orifice tube, remove as much residue as possible. 4) Using a heat gun or hair dryer, carefully apply heat 1/4\' from dimples on liquid line. Be careful not to overheat line. If A/C pressure switch is located near orifice tube, remove switch to protect it from heat.
5) While heat is being applied, grip orifice tube using orifice tube remover/installer. Use a turning motion along with a push-pull motion to loosen and remove orifice tube. Installation 1) Clean liquid line fitting with NEW refrigerant oil. Coat inside of liquid line and NEW \'O' ring with NEW refrigerant oil.
Lubricate NEW orifice tube and \'O' ring with refrigerant oil and insert them into liquid line. Insert longer orifice tube screen (inlet end) into condenser outlet line first, toward condenser. 2) Tighten liquid line fitting to 18 ft. Chris brown royalty album download zip.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Evacuate, charge and test system for proper operation. Quote: I have a 1997 GMC K1500 with the 5.7L. The A/C has been acting up (has had a slow leak for years that required about a can of freon per summer), but recently has stopped working completely. The guy up at Autozone had me release all of the remaining freon (which wasn\'t much), then put one can back in and check the pressure. The pressure coming out of the compressor peaked the gauges, which he said meant that the system was not circulating the freon and pointed towards a clogged orifice / filter.
So now I\'m going to replace the orifice tube ($1 part, good place to start), but there isn\'t any solid information on where it is located. One link I found online said it was directly behind the passenger turn signal before the inlet to the condenser. Can anyone confirm this before I go taking apart the system? Wow, Autozone is hiring ASE Certified A/C Techs to work in the stores now? I cannot believe he did that. You really need to replace the drier and pull a vacuum on the system. One can of refrigerant is usually NOT enough to cause the compressor to even come on, so him telling you that its peaked out is normal, since the system will be at equilibrium, since its not compressing or pushing any refrigerant through the orifice.
Of course the low side will show >60 PSI.
...'>How To Install Orifice Tube(02.11.2018)